RunOut #146: From Big Walls to Open Water: Unlocking the Expedition Mindset with Mark Synnott
Mark Synnott is a professional big-wall climber, expedition sailor, and writer whose books have included The Third Pole and The Impossible Climb. His latest book is Into The Ice, an epic read about his recent voyage across the infamous Northwest Passage and the historical mysteries that lie within. The 6,736-mile journey takes 112 days, allowing Mark to give us his most personal memoir yet while weaving in the historical details of British explorer Sir John Franklin and the 128 men he led on an ill-fated expedition in the mid-19th century.
But first, we gush over some cool climbing news: Brooke Raboutou becomes the first woman to reach 5.15c, and Connor Herson makes a quick tick of one of the hardest crack climbs in the desert: Mason Earle's Stranger Than Fiction
Our final bit is a throwback to a moment in time when the Black Nugget in Carbondale was the place to be, and Sector 7G found a groove that sent the cowboys and hippies spiraling.
Show Notes
Follow Mark Synnott on Instagram and check out his homepage
"Into the Ice" from Penguin Random House
All books by Mark Synnott
Northwest Passage - Wikipedia
Northwest Passage - AP
The RunOut #60 - Mark Synnott and Everest
News: Brooke Raboutou Climbs 5.15c
Follow Brooke | Her send post
News: Connor Herson Climbs Stranger Than Fiction (5.14b)
Follow Connor | His send post
Mason Earle's tapped foot
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1:35:35
RunOut #145: Here Come the Management Plans
Earlier this year, the Bears Ears Resource Management Plan dropped, outlining rules regarding camping, waste management, dogs, and, perhaps most controversially, fixed anchors for new routes across the monument, which includes, of course, Indian Creek. Jason Keith is a senior policy advisor at the Access Fund who has spent his career navigating the legal and relational fog of securing access for climbers across the country. He was deeply involved in the development of this plan and talks to us today about what it means for climbers today—and everyone going forward amid the uncertainty and chaos of the current administration.
But first, we talk about favorite mountain on earth, Everest, and why it's a such a slippery slope. Drones are coming for Sherpa jobs, but our hot take on this development might surprise you.
Our Final Bit is the Golden Shoals, a fiddle and guitar duo featuring Mark Kilianski and rock climber Amy Alvey. Check out the Show Notes for tour dates, website, and more!
Show Notes
New Rules at Indian Creek Are Now in Effect. Here’s What You Need to Know.
Bears Ears Resource Management Plan
Access Fund
Drones Will Do Some Schlepping for Sherpas on Mount Everest
Golden Shoals
Follow Golden Shoals and Amy Alvey on Instagram
Golden Shoals tour dates.
Get Bonus Episodes! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
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1:12:05
RunOut #144: Life After Competition: Hannah Schubert and Eating Disorders in Climbing
Hannah Schubert is an Austrian climber who has podiumed at the World Cup and the World Championships. Now retired from professional competition, Hannah was recently profiled in Der Spiegel, one of Germanys' largest publications, where she opened up about her struggles with eating disorders during the height of her competitive career.
Our conversation traces Hannah's career, from climbing alongside her brother Jakob, to the hyper competitive world of Austrian climbing, and what it meant to stand on a World Cup podium. We look at how eating disorders can spread through taking silent cues, comparing yourself to others, and the comments made by coaches. We talk about how easy eating disorders are to hide from others, making it hard to talk about and address. And we hear about the ultimate breaking point for Hannah, and her years long recovery back to mental and physical health.
But first, Chris has a confession to make to Andrew ... and needless to say, Andrew is NOT happy about it.
Our final bit is some classic Winona shit.
Show Notes
Follow Hannah Schubert on Instagram
Profile in Der Spiegel
Guest Blog by Hannah Schubert: Why I Think Vulnerability Matters
Young Women with Anorexia Nervosa Speak Out about Hospital Experiences
Michigan Ice Festival
Winona Ice Festival
Matthew Drazkowski rant
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more! Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
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1:28:09
RunOut #143: PARC Act Passes, so What’s Next For Climbing in America?
The Protect America's Rock Climbing Act was signed into law at the end of President Biden's term. The PARC Act mandates that various government departments issue guideance recognizing rock climbing as a legitimate use of public lands, including the placement and maintenance of fixed anchors in Wilderness. This historic act was the result of a multi-year campaign spearheaded by the Access Fund. Our guests today are Access Fund executive director Heather Thorne and deputy director Erik Murdock. This interview was recorded on January 28th, before the news of DOGE's cuts to many positions, including at our national parks. To check out the Access Fund's position on the DOGE cuts, see the linked article in our Show Notes.
But first, we tee up our conversation with the Access Fund by talking about this recent news, including the upside-down American flag that was hung from the top of El Capitan last week by Yosemite's recently dismissed locksmith and others.
Our final bit is from a climber at heart, Madi Rindge, aka, Madi Bisharat, my cousin and a brilliant musician whose music I'm honored and excited to share. Check out the show notes for links to her albums, including this song Alien, as well as a GoFundMe to support her father who lost his house in the Palisades fire this year.
Become a RunOut Rope Gun! Support our podcast and increase your RunOut runtime. Bonus episodes, AMA, and more will be available to our Rope Guns. Thank you for your support! http://patreon.com/runoutpodcast
Show Notes
VICTORY! Congress Passes Protecting America's Rock Climbing Act -- Access Fund
A New Era for Climbing: PARC Act’s Impact and the Path Forward -- Access Fund
Tell Lawmakers How Firing Public Lands Employees Impacts You -- Access Fund
Donate to the Access Fund
How the Yosemite Climbing Community Is Reacting to DOGE Layoffs -- Climbing.com
Protesters Display Upside-Down American Flag at Yosemite -- NYT
Cat rescue
Follow Madi Rindge on Instagram
Listen to Running Out of Oxygen on Spotify
Order Running out of Oxygen from Madi.
GoFundMe for Charlie Bisharat's home that was lost in the Palisades fire
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1:17:09
RunOut #142: Jason Kehl and the Evolution of Bouldering
Jason Kehl is a hold shaper, iconclast, and highball bouldering legend, perhaps best known for his first ascent of Evilution in the Buttermilks. Today, he lives in El Paso, Texas, where he continues to establish first ascents all over Hueco Tanks. He is also continue to work with So Ill to create climbing holds. Our conversation traces the evolution of bouldering as a sport for misfits and outcasts to the conformist scene of today.
But first, we respond to the tragic news of an ice-climbing death by asking some tough and perhaps irreconcilable questions about being a new climber, in which ambition can exceed experience, and how social media dynamics can make all of this worse.
Last, a little amuse bouche of one of our favorite climbing songwriters, Chris Parker, who'll be joining us on stage in Boulder for our upcoming LIVE event on February 20.
Show Notes
Follow Jason Kehl on Instagram
Jason Kehl’s World of Illusions - Episode 8 - Hueco's Web
Hueco Rehab - “Real Climbing Episode 5"
Check out the Connect Board from So Ill
Check out the latest holds from So Ill
Ice Climber Dies in the Canadian Rockies -- Gripped
Chris Kalous (The Enormocast) and Andrew Bisharat (Evening Sends) bring 40+ years of combined climbing experience to the mic while they talk to the best and most interesting people in climbing. The hosts take on rock climbing, bouldering, ice climbing, alpinism, comp climbing, all the climbing. No subject is left out or climbing dogma unexamined. You may not agree with the take, but you’ll likely laugh about it later.